WHanganui River

The Whanganui River winds its way from the mountains to the Tasman Sea through countless hills and valleys. It is New Zealand’s longest navigable river and is popular for trout fishing. 

Chilled alpine waters flow from the upper reached of Mt. Tongariro.  A crystal-clear stream mingles with the bubbling mountain tributaries of Mt. Ngauruhoe and Mt. Ruapehu. Lowland forest surrounds the river in its middle and lower reaches, which is the heart of the Whanganui National Park.  The river is home to the rare Whio (Blue duck), a species that inhabits the clean, fast flowing streams of the forested upper catchments.

 

The 145 kilometre river journey from Taumarunui to Pipiriki takes an average 5 days to complete by canoe. The Whanganui Journey is the only river journey which is part of New Zealand’s Great Walks network.

The 3 days Whakahoro to Pipiriki journey takes in the best of the Whanganui River and National Park has to offer.  For this reason it is the most popular of all paddling excursions. 

Wades Landing Lodge runs chartered or freedom hire canoe and kayak trips down the Whanganui River.  See our Canoe and Kayak Trips page for details or contact us for more information.

History

The banks of this Central North Island trading route were occupied by the people of Te Atihaunui a Paparangi, the Whanganui iwi who lived in kainga (villages) protected by pa (fortified sites).  A close and deeply spiritual connection with the river has been maintained and today these villages are being revitalised.

Maori cultivated the sheltered terraces and built elaborate eel weirs along river channels where eels and lamprey were known to converge. Every bend of the river had kaitiaki (guardian) which controlled the mauri (life force) of that place. The mana (prestige) of a settlement depended upon the way in which food supplies and living areas were looked after for the benefit of the tribe and visitors.

Te Atihaunui, a Paparangi people, settled the valley from 1100 AD. In time the river became linked by a series of pa which were later called 'the plaited fibres of Hinengakau'.

The first major European influence arrived with missionaries in the 1840s. In 1891 a regular riverboat service began carrying passengers, mail, and freight to the European settlers on the river between Taumarunui and Pipiriki and a thriving tourist trade soon began between Mt. Ruapehu and Wanganui.
The main riverboat trade ceased in the 1920s due to better roads, a main trunk railway and the development of other tourist attractions around the country, although riverboats were still operating in the late 1950s.

Whanganui River Legend

Long ago, Maui Tikitiki and his brothers went fishing and hauled up Te Haha Te Whenui, the fish of Maui, the North Island. So mighty was this fish that Maui returned immediately to Hawaiki for help, leaving his awed brothers to safeguard it.

In their fear they approached Ranganui, who told them, “The mana of Ti Ika a Maui can be subdued only by a greater mana.  I give you Matua Te Mana – Ruapehu.” This clcano, rising skywards in the centre of the new land, brought much needed tranquillity.

But there was a problem for Ruapehu – loneliness – and it was Raninui who noticed.  Ranginui laid two teardrops at Ruapehu’s feet, one of which was to become the Whanganui River, to become a story for other tribes to tell.

But Ruapehu’s sorrow deepened and he pleaded with Raninui for companionship. In time Ranginui sent him four friends; Tongariro, gardian of the two tear drops, Taranaki, custodian of the tapu for the clan of the mountains, Ngauruhoe, the servant of these mountain master, and Piahanga, the maiden mountain.

Pihanga was spoken for as tongariro’s bride and the future mother of the continuing line for the mountain enclave. However Pihanga was tempted by Taranaki. Eventually, heeding the advice of his brother Ruapehu, Taranaki wisely but sadly left the enclave. It was the only way he could ensure his tapu remained intact.

Taranaki took the pathway that many mortals would later follow, down the course of the Whanganui River. At the western poimt in the river he struck out towards the coast, settling by the ocean as the gardian of the setting sun. Here he remains, within view of the line of mountains of the central uplands from whom he stands in exile. And the Whanganui River continues to flow from Tongariro and down to the sea.

Natural History

The land surrounding the river is only about one million years old. Formed of soft sandstone and mudstone (papa) from the ocean-bed, it has been eroded by water to form sharp ridges, deep gorges, sheer papa cliffs and waterfalls.

Over this land has grown a broadleaf-podocarp forest of rata, rewarewa, rimu, tawa, kamahi and kowhai with beech dominant on the ridge tops. Tree ferns and plants that cling to the steep riverbanks are very distinctive.

Bird species such as kereru (native pigeon), tiwaiwaka (fantail), tui, toutouwai (robin), riroriro (grey warbler), and miromiro (tomtit) are often seen and heard. The call of the brown kiwi can often be heard at night. The river is rich in eels, lamprey, species of galaxiid (a group of native fish species including whitebait and kokopu), koura (freshwater crayfish), and black flounder.

Kaiwhakauka/Mangapurua Trek
This is a 3 to 4 day trek through the historic Kaiwhakauka and Mangapurua valleys crossing the Bridge to Nowhere.  River transport is necessary to and from Mangapurua Landing.  Wades Landing Lodge offers Canoe & Kayak Trips as well as Jet Boating Trips to the Mangapurua Landing.

Whanganui River Journey Great Walk Track Description
The 145 kilometre river journey from Taumarunui to Pipiriki takes an average 5 days to complete by canoe. A shorter 3 day journey from Whakahoro to Pipiriki is also possible. Although a river journey, the Whanganui is part of New Zealand's Great Walks network. Distances between campsites and huts are as follows:

  • Cherry Grove, Taumarunui to Ohinepane campsite — 22 kilometres
  • Ohinepane to Poukaria campsite — 14 kilometres
  • Poukaria to Maharanui campsite — 17 kilometres
  • Maharanui to Whakahoro campsite — 4 kilometres
  • Whakahoro to Mangapapa campsite — 11 kilometres
  • Mangapapa to Ohauora campsite — 16 kilometres
  • Ohauora to John Coull Hut — 10.5 kilometres
  • John Coull Hut to Mangawaiiti campsite — 9.5 kilometres
  • Mangawaiiti to Mangapurua campsite — 9 kilometres
  • Mangapurua to Tieke Kainga — 10.5 kilometres
  • Tieke to Ngaporo campsite — 12.5 kilometres
  • Ngaporo to Pipiriki — 8 kilometres

Location map of Whanganui Journey.

Please see our Canoe and Kayak Trips page for details regarding our chartered or freedom hire trips down the Whanganui River, or contact us for more information.